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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.